It's pouring rain in Dubrovnik today, a day that makes me understand the conditions that Shakespeare gave his stage-setting in the play, "The Tempest," about a shipwreck on the coast of what was then called Illyria, but today is Croatia. Lucy and I have had a couple days of gorgeous weather at the beginning of our week here, however, starting Oct. 31, and the town is a treasure chest of baroque architecture, set on a stunningly beautiful stretch of the Dalmatian Coast. We've rented an apartment for the week, right in the heart of the Old Town, and are using it as our base to see the town and the surrounding area. We spent one day taking a boat trip to the Elaphiti (Deer) Islands in the Adriatic Sea not far from here,and found them pretty much closed up for the season, as is much of the area, now that it's November (and today, with sheets of rain coming down, and umbrella-destroying gusts of wind, I can see why!)
Dubrovnik: the Old Town, from the Lovrijenac Fortress.
The "Stradun," or "Main Street," of Dubrovnik's Old Town
The Old Port ("Stara Luka") of Dubrovnik
The main street of the Old Town of Dubrovnik, entirely made out of marble, at evening.
Then Wednesday, 11/4, we drove to Montenegro from Dubrovnik, and followed the road around the Bay of Kotor to the town of Kotor, a truly spectacular place. The town, like Dubrovnik, was destroyed by an earthquake in 1667, and had another one in 1979, but most of the old city wall is still there, along with lots of old buildings. We returned to Dubrovnik that night, driving around the other side of the Bay of Kotor, past two little islands that formerly were monasteries, but now are uninhabited. They almost look like little boats, gliding on the smooth waters of the bay, which with its steep mountainous sides is really a fjord.
Monastery islands in the Bay of Kotor, Montenegro
View from the fortifications on the hills above Kotor, Montenegro
Yesterday, 11/5, we drove three hours each way to Bosnia-Herzegovina and visited the city of Mostar, where the famous 400 year old bridge, linking the Croat and Muslim sides of the city, has been rebuilt after being destroyed by Croat shelling in 1993 during the Bosnian war. There are still many abandoned and bullet-scarred buildings in Mostar, and the economy is obviously in pretty bad shape. Several of the Bosnian people we talked to in the shops said they just wanted to emigrate to the United States, because life was still so difficult for them in Bosnia. But we were impressed with their openness and their friendly welcome. I doubt that they get many Americans like us coming to Bosnia, unless they're connected to the military or to the U.N. relief agencies, which were quite in evidence in Mostar.
The rebuilt bridge in Mostar, spanning the Neretva River, between the Croatian Catholic and Bosniak Muslim sides of the town.
Lucy in Mostar.
Tomorrow morning, Nov. 7, we have to be up at 4:30 a.m. to meet the bus to the Dubrovnik Airport, which leaves the road above the Old Town at 5:15, for a 6:40 a.m. flight to Zagreb and then points beyond. Lucy is flying back to Minnesota, and I am headed to Venice, and then South Africa, where I will attend the dedication service of our partner church (which our House of Hope volunteers have been helping to build) in Malungeni on Sunday, Nov. 15. I'll update you next from there!
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Dad! Finally have had a chance to read you blog posts and check out your photos. This certainly the trip of a lifetime and I really think the blog format works well for you! Your photos are improving throughout; you definitely have many "prize winners". Just wanted to let you know I'm thinking of you and can't wait to hear about all the journeys and adventures once you're back!
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